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Angie Mar’s Menu: Red Meat and Respect

Angie Mar stood at her kitchen’s narrow steel pass on a recent Saturday, gliding through a dinner rush that wouldn’t let up until close to midnight.

“My loves,” she announced, “coming my way I’ve got one branzino, two côtes de bœuf — one rare, one medium — one poutine, and in six minutes, a duck for two with a lamb chop and a tartiflette going with a porterhouse, and in 11 minutes I’d like a full clean down of the kitchen.”

“Yes, chef,” five cooks replied in unison.

Ms. Mar, 35, is the chef and owner of the Beatrice Inn. For nearly a century, the space in a West Village brownstone was many things — a Prohibition-era speakeasy, a family-owned Italian restaurant, a club with a celebrity clientele — but it was never known for the prowess of its kitchen, which at less than 200 square feet is minuscule even by New York standards.

Ms. Mar changed that. The Beatrice Inn has become a magnet for awards, including her 2017 nod from Food & Wine magazine as one of the country’s best new chefs. A July review in The New Yorker proclaimed, “Angie Mar is a badass” — not just for buying the restaurant from the Vanity Fair editor Graydon Carter in 2016, but also for quickly turning it into “a buzzy foodie destination.”

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